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The Creative Genius of Sneaker Design | Salehe Bembury and Cloe Shasha Brooks | TED

Design
29 Aug 20265 min summaryFrom TED
The Creative Genius of Sneaker Design | Salehe Bembury and Cloe Shasha Brooks | TED
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Development of the Crocs Pollex Clog

  • Salehe Bembury designed the Crocs Pollex clog, which features a mold based on his own fingerprint 0s.
  • The collaboration began after Crocs reached out to send Bembury shoes, and he proposed a partnership instead 0s.
  • Bembury’s industrial design background led him to manipulate the physical form of the Croc, rather than simply reskinning the shoe or adding Jibbitz as previous collaborators had done 25s.
  • Crocs invited Bembury to be the first collaborative designer to create a shoe from scratch after seeing his interest in altering the product's form 25s.
  • During the design process, Bembury aimed to maintain the existing Crocs DNA to retain the current consumer base while introducing his own brand identity to reach a new audience 42s.

Career Path and Versace Partnership

  • Bembury’s career in footwear design began at Payless in 2009 and has included collaborations with brands such as New Balance, Cole Haan, and Versace 1m5s.
  • Bembury currently operates his own brand, which is named Spunge 1m5s.
  • While unemployed, Bembury used platforms like LinkedIn, Craigslist, and Facebook to reach out to industry professionals 1m25s.
  • Bembury contacted a Versace design director to propose an opportunity, arguing that the sneaker industry was a multibillion-dollar business and that consumers were becoming increasingly aware of fashion houses producing sneakers 1m25s.
  • Donatella Versace responded to Bembury’s proposal a few days later, expressing interest in his ideas and inviting him to Milan to present his vision for a sneaker program 1m50s.
  • After presenting a combination of design, merchandising, and sales insights in Milan, Bembury was offered a position by Donatella Versace 2m6s.
  • Bembury negotiated the terms of his employment to allow him to maintain a design studio in Los Angeles while traveling to Milan monthly for factory visits and shows 2m6s.

Design Philosophy and Collaborative Projects

  • Bembury’s design approach consistently incorporates color, form, and function in a playful manner, often including nuanced details or "Easter eggs" for consumers to discover 2m35s.
  • The first collaboration with the Chinese brand Anta was developed from scratch rather than being a simple color-up or skinning of an existing design, serving as an introduction to the footwear industry and the designer's audience 0s.
  • The HALI 1, a signature sneaker designed for Tyrese Haliburton in partnership with Puma, was inspired by the designer's initial interest in basketball and the emotions associated with the sport 35s.
  • A shoe created for the high-fashion brand Pyer Moss was designed to represent the feeling of being financially stuck, utilizing silicone as a material solution to avoid using concrete 1m5s.
  • The Pyer Moss collaboration was featured in a runway show, specifically identified as an SS '16 collection 1m23s.
  • The Moncler Genius collaboration marked the designer's first ready-to-wear collection and involved world-building through a full installation that included footwear, accessories, and large-scale billboards 1m30s.

Brand Identity and New Balance Collaborations

  • Establishing a signature identity that is recognizable without a logo allows an independent designer to transition more easily across different product categories 1m55s.
  • The New Balance "Sand be the Time" project was inspired by a trip to the pink sand dunes in Utah, with the shoe's chenille execution reflecting the colors of the sunset 2m15s.
  • The "Peace Be the Journey" shoe, released in 2020 and inspired by Antelope Canyon, remains popular on resale markets 2m45s.
  • The design of the "Peace Be the Journey" shoe incorporates specific color choices to represent the canyon, with orange tones reflecting the landscape, blue representing the sky, and maroon representing the sunset 3m15s.

The New Balance 574 Yurt Whistle Innovation

  • Footwear can serve as a visual cue that signifies membership within a specific community, similar to how wearing certain brands might indicate shared language or interests 0s.
  • The New Balance 574 Yurt shoe features a functional whistle integrated into the heel 15s.
  • The inspiration for the whistle originated from observing a molded plastic piece on a Nike Zoom Vomero shoe that lacked a functional purpose 42s.
  • The goal was to utilize the unused space on the back of the shoe for a functional element without incorporating expensive technology that would increase the price 1m5s.
  • The whistle was initially designed simply because it was perceived as a cool concept, but a narrative regarding safety and utility during outdoor activities was later developed to present the idea to the New Balance team 1m22s.
  • Incorporating a whistle provides a practical tool for hikers, offering a more energy-efficient way to signal for help compared to screaming if injured 2m6s.

Creative Process and Consumer Experience

  • Creative output is not necessarily tied to the amount of time spent, as high-quality work can be produced quickly while poor work can take months to create 2m25s.
  • Avoiding distractions, such as the constant consumption of content on social media and the internet, is essential for maintaining one's own creative vision 2m45s.
  • Beyond the footwear itself, the design of shoe boxes is a significant focus, with attention paid to how they stack and appeal to collectors 3m15s.
  • Design decisions are informed by personal experiences and a background in footwear consumerism, aiming to recreate moments that evoke feelings of coolness, athleticism, or magic 3m38s.

Product Impact and Audience Reception

  • Designers should utilize every available area of a product's surface to maximize the impact of the reveal moment. 0s
  • The initial reaction of an audience to a product can evolve over time, as repeated exposure may lead consumers to appreciate designs they did not initially like. 0s
  • Product design can influence consumer preferences, as demonstrated by the Crocs Pollex, which initially upset some people before gaining broader acceptance. 0s
  • The philosophy that consumers do not know what they want until it is shown to them is a guiding principle in product development. 0s

Maintaining Authenticity and Creative Freedom

  • Salehe Bembury created a clay model of an Air Jordan 11 at the age of nine, an interest that has remained a lifelong pursuit. 25s
  • Maintaining a connection to one's younger self is essential for creative work, as it fosters a sense of freedom and nostalgia. 33s
  • Creative output is often most authentic when it is free from the boundaries, restrictions, market rules, and trends imposed by employers or industry standards. 45s
  • Achieving true creative freedom requires balancing professional requirements with the desire to maintain an unrestricted, childlike approach to design. 55s
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